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Forum Zone-2000 • View topic - Gasherbrum II

Gasherbrum II

De la cosak speciale.

Moderator: :-)

Gasherbrum II

Postby Zoka » 05 Jun 2006, 21:40

Image


"Bljestavi Zid" u Karakorumu je drugo ime za Gasherbrum II.

To je drugi po visini vrh od Gasherbrum vrhova i ima 8,035 metara. Postoje sest Garsherbrum vrhova u tom lancu. Prvenstveni uspon na G2 su napravili Autralijanci predvodjeni sa Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch i Hans Willenpart, 8-Jula 1956.

Kamp 1 su postavili na 6005 metara i bivak ispod 7620 metara. Penjanje na vrh je miksan (stijena i led). Potrebno je imati visok nivo tehnike, fizicke spreme i biti dobro aklimatiziran. Pristup je kroz Skardu i Baltoro glecer i traje jednu nedelju.

www.saltorosummits.com[/img]
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AO PD "Konjuh" Tuzla
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Postby Zoka » 05 Jun 2006, 21:43

Slijedeci mjesec je 50-to godisnjica uspona!
Izgleda da ce nasi momci propustiti koncert i rostilj jer idu 2007. Vec su neki vodeci svjetski muzicari najavili ucesce na koncertu na Baltoro gleceru:
U2, Rolling Stones, Seka, Jovana Karleusa i Andrea Bochelli.

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Postby Bojan » 06 Jun 2006, 11:14

Vojvodjanska expedicija krenula juce put Himalaja, cilj im je uspon na Gasherbrum 1 i 2.

Praticemo sta se desava......
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Postby Bojan » 09 Jun 2006, 15:36

Sajt expedicije na Gasherbrum:

www.vojvodineanexpedition.net
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Gasherbrum

Postby Bojan » 28 Jun 2006, 10:54

Clanovi expedicije podigli bazni kamp C-1 na 5900m, od planiranog uspona i postavljanja fikseva do 6400m odustali, jer je u toku noci palo 50 cm snega. Cekaju poboljsanje vremena pa nastavljaju dalje.
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Gasherbrum 2

Postby Bojan » 11 Jul 2006, 09:40

Vesti sa Himalaja:

10.07.06.
Iso Planic i Goran Ferlan sa dvojicom visinskih penjaca stigli su u drugi visinski logor, C-2 na 6400 metara. Ako ih posluzi vreme, produzice ka vrhu Gaserbrum II.
Milivoj Erdeljan

[/img]
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popeli vrh

Postby Bojan » 12 Jul 2006, 08:30

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Postby chupo » 12 Jul 2006, 09:18

čestitke momcima
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Postby bubica » 12 Jul 2006, 12:35

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Postby penzioner » 12 Jul 2006, 12:44

Kada shvatiš da si počeo razmišljati kao većina ljudi oko tebe, krajnje je vrijeme da promijeniš mišljenje.
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Postby alpiner » 12 Jul 2006, 15:48

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Postby nailovamater » 13 Jul 2006, 09:58

bolje odrat' tabane bježeći, nego umrijet' neodranih tabana!

http://nailovamater.zone-2000.net
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Postby Bojan » 14 Jul 2006, 14:56

14.07.06.
Članovi ekspedicije Iso Planić i Goran Ferlan su ,po uspešno obavljenom usponu na 8035 m visok Gašerbrum II ,12.07.2006. u 04,15 sati po evropskom vremenu,proveli olujnu noć izmedju 12. i 13. jula u kampu 2 na 6500 m sa Pakistancima Sadikom i Saidom ,visinskim nosačima.Bez sna jer je vetar pretio da odnese ceo kamp.Ujutro nije bilo druge nego da se krene ka kampu 1 na 5900 m i ,ako se bude moglo, ka baznom kampu.
Bez mogućnosti da se pronadju zatrpana fiksna užad kretalo se alpskim stilom u navezi.
Stanje na ledniku se prethodna dva dana visoke temperature ,dramatično promenilo.Ceo lednik se pokrenuo i otvorile su se nove pukotine.Put od kampa 2 do kampa 1 ,koji se prelazi za 1,5 sati uobičajeno,je trajao 6 sati.Uglavnom se puzalo jer se tako lakše otrkivaju i prelaze novootvorene pukotine u ledu.Traženje šatora u kampu 1 je trajalo više od 1,5 sati u mećavi. Put od kampa 1 sa 5900 m do baznog na 5100 m ,kada se uglavnom prelazi glečer sa mnogo starih i novih seraka su prošli za dodatnih 7 sati puzanja i lutanja u olujnoj vejavici ovog sretnog 13.jula za naše alpiniste.Svi,ponavljamo SVI , su po nekoliko puta upadali u manje ili veće pukotine ,ali je najsretniji bio Goran koga su više od sat vremena vadili ostala trojica iz pukotine duboke 30 metara.Srećom u padu dužem od dvadeset metara Goran nije ništa polomio što može da zahvali i sreći ali i dobroj psihofizičkoj pripremljenosti za ovu ekspediciju.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

14.07.06.
Trenutno ovog jutra ,14.jula svi se nalaze u baznom kampu koji je takodje zatrpan snegom i koji i dalje pada.Svi su zdravi i nepovredjeni.U baznom kampu se medju ostalim ekspedicijama polako odustaje od daljih uspona ,pogotovo na oba Gašerbrum vrha preko 8000 m .Za sada samo «ludi Srbi»( odavno nas tako sa simpatijama zovu) i Koreanci ne odustaju.
A i kuda bi smo po ovolikom snegu!?
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Postby alpiner » 14 Jul 2006, 15:45

dobro je da su se vratili citavi.
Jos jednom cestitke na vrhu i citavoj ekipi na uspjehu i dobroj organizaciji.
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Postby Bojan » 26 Jul 2006, 13:41

24.07.2006.
BAZNI KAMP Gasherbrum 1 i 2
Stanje ekspedicije:
Oprema za visinske kampove sa G 2 uglavnom sacuvana i radi se na prebacivanju ka visinskim kampovima za G 1. Visinski penjaci su u podnosljivoj zdravstvenoj kondiciji. Iso ,Miso i Mirko su dobro i krenuli su ka C2,tj ka vrhu G1.
Goran Ferlan je u Dubaiju i zaglavio je na putu kuci jer avioni ne lete direktno za Beograd .Radi se iz Srbije na njegovom prebacivanju.
U BC je sve u redu.
Sneg na planini se po lepom vremenu vec prepolovio i treba nam pet lepih dana ,malo srece i mnogo snage i upornosti za G1.

Milivoj Erdeljan i Mico Jovovic


26.07.2006.

BC Gasherbrum -Karakorum
Stanje ekspedicije:
-svi zdravi u BC osim jednog visinskog nosaca(moguca upala pluca)
-Oprema za uspona na G1 izneta do C1 (,satori,uzad-500 m ,gorionici ,plin ,hrana...)
-Postavljeno prvih sto metara fiksnih uzadi ka vrhu G1( Iso )
-Trenutno su svi u BC.Ceka se rasplet na G2 odakle stizu, nazalost lose vesti:dvojica clanova Spanske ekspedicije su nestala a jednog spustaju sa povredom kicme.Koreanci se odmaraju od uspona na G2.Posto imamo ranije postignuti dogovor da oni osiguraju ~Japanski kuloar~ a mi tri stotine metara od C3 ka vrhu,moramo da sacekamo njih jer sami to bez Gorana i jednog visinskog penjaca ,ne mozemo. Odluka, koja je potvrdjena iz PSSV, je da se sami ne upustamo ka vrhu G1.Previse bi bilo rizicno i naporno.
-Goran Ferlan je juce stigao u Srbiju sa bolovima u ledjima ali dobrog opsteg stanja i sa velikim pozdravima za preostale u ekspediciji.
Dakle ostaje nam opet i samo: cekanje.Kao i uvek na ekspedicijama.
Vodja ekspedicije Milivoj Erdeljan i Miodrag Jovovic-predsednik PSSV
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