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Forum Zone-2000 • View topic - Nesrece u planini i stijeni

Nesrece u planini i stijeni

De la cosak speciale.

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Re: Nesrece u planini i stijeni

Postby StoMiNedaMojNadimak » 16 Jan 2011, 23:23

Opet pitam: što mi neda moj nadimak?
theČUPO
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Re: Nesrece u planini i stijeni

Postby 3oka » 18 Jan 2011, 14:30

copy-paste iz zadnjeg Climbing magazina Ime konferencije je dolje pa tamo trazite detalje kao i na BD stranici ciji je link takodjer negdje u tekstu.

DIRTY LITTLE SECRETS

An alarming new study tests the strength of soiled cord. By Lee Lang.

THE OLD ADAGE "the person who steps on the rope buys beer" took on new meaning at the 2010 International Technical Rescue Symposium (ITRS) this November, We all ac­cept tha7 dirt reduces a rope's strength. Presumably, grit inside a rope cuts and abrades the numbers as the rope stretches and relaxes during use. But to what degree is a dirty rope weakened? Our study presented at the ITRS examined just that, and the findings should make climbers re-examine their gear. Although the study was done with an eye toward vertical rescue, its findings are readily applicable to normal climbing.

Prusik-style lengths of 8mm cord were soaked in dirty. gritty water, allowed to dry, and then put through five, 1,000-pound slow pulls to mimic realistic cord usage during rescue operations. The study found that after one soiling/pulling event. the cord had lost approximately 20 percent of its strength. After eight cycles, it lost 40 percent of its strength. FORTY PERCENT! Many climbers use 6mm cordelettes that, when brand new, hold about 2,000 pounds. The ITRS study suggests that, when "dirty" that same cordelette may fail at 1,200 pounds. Consider that a 165-pound climber who climbs five feet off the belay and falls onto the anchor will generate about 1,800 pounds of force. An anchor that is not fully equalized in the direction of the fall may fail because of soiled cord. HOW OFTEN do we take our ropes and accessory cord for granted? Do you have your cordelette hanging from a gear loop on your harness, as I do? How often do you sit on ii, grinding soil into the cord? How often do you toss your climbing rope onto the dirt at the base of a climb? Black Diamond's director of quality, Kolin Pow­ick, tested some well-worn-9mm climbing ropes and found that sections trimmed from the ends, which get the most abuse, were failing al 1.100 10 1,300 pounds of force! See http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en ... -old-ropes

I URGE CLIMBERS to re-examine their retirement policy when it comes to ropes, cords, and other nylon products. Dirt may be impacting these goods to a higher de­gree than we ever imagined.
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Re: Nesrece u planini i stijeni

Postby 3oka » 31 Jan 2011, 17:59

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Re: Nesrece u planini i stijeni

Postby Zoka » 31 Jan 2011, 21:30

Stvarno je imao srecu!

Odmah sam se sjetio kada je 2008 jedan solo alpinist pao na Denaliju sa grebena, do dna Peters glecera. Pao je preko 600m i povrijedio lice i nogu. Mi smo ga par dana prije uspona ugostili vecerom, jer je izgubio svu svoju hranu na planini. Nije dobro obiljezio mjesto gdje je zakopao hranu. Postavio je kratki bambusov stap ali je napadalo puno snijega i vise nisu mogli naci mjesto. Kada je pao na dno uspio je nazvati GSS satelitskim telefonom. Izvukli su ga uzetom na greben a poslije spustili uzetom preko 600m u kamp 4. To je bila akcija ...

Evo price ovdje:
http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes ... s_glacier/
Alpinist #112, Alpinisticki Savez R BiH
AO PD "Konjuh" Tuzla
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Re: Nesrece u planini i stijeni

Postby Vezir » 27 Feb 2011, 20:37

“Over time, our only chance at safety will depend on not turning the mountains into Disneyland.”
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Re: Nesrece u planini i stijeni

Postby nailovamater » 28 Feb 2011, 10:22

što na international :shock:
bolje odrat' tabane bježeći, nego umrijet' neodranih tabana!

http://nailovamater.zone-2000.net
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Re: Nesrece u planini i stijeni

Postby Vezir » 28 Feb 2011, 10:59

“Over time, our only chance at safety will depend on not turning the mountains into Disneyland.”
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Re: Nesrece u planini i stijeni

Postby azdaha » 27 May 2011, 11:55

____________________________
http://alemjag.wordpress.com/
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Re: Nesrece u planini i stijeni

Postby justahiker » 26 Jun 2011, 16:32

Uzbrdo - nizbrdo.....
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Re: Nesrece u planini i stijeni

Postby 3oka » 27 Jun 2011, 08:52

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Re: Nesrece u planini i stijeni

Postby 3oka » 01 Jul 2011, 07:59

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Re: Nesrece u planini i stijeni

Postby SenadR » 01 Jul 2011, 17:00

http://salidacitizen.com/2011/06/one-de ... ton-trail/
http://denver.cbslocal.com/2011/06/25/r ... unt-evans/
Tragican pocetak ljeta u Koloradu, dvije zrtve i dvije nestale osobe u posljednjih deset dana :-(
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