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Forum Zone-2000 • View topic - Tura ALPE 2010

Tura ALPE 2010

Razgovori sa dozom adrenalina!

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Re: Tura ALPE 2010

Postby nona » 06 Aug 2010, 20:41

Smijerovi u Eigeru, North Face, nekog ce interesovati :strasljo
(preuzeto iz Alpinist magazina, ne kontam koja bi slova trebali biti ovi upitnici dole u tekstu)

Image

The Eiger Nordwand. Routes shown are as follows.

1 Mittellegi Ridge (AD, 600m, Amatter-Brawand-Maki-Steuri, 1921)
2 Lauper Route (TD+, 1800m, Graven-Knubel-Lauper-Z�rcher, 1932)
3 Northeast Pillar, Messner Route (a.k.a. Austrian Route, TD, 1800m, Hiebeler-Messner-Messner-Maschka, 1968)
4 Griff ins Licht (7c M5, 1800m, Odermatt-Keller, 2002)
5 Northeast Pillar, Scottish Route (ED 3, 1800m, MacEacheran-McKeith-Spence, 1970)
6 North Pillar, Polish Route (5.7, one pitch of aid, 1800m, 700m to junction with Messner Route, Cielecki-Laukajtys-Szafirski-Zysak, 1968)
7 Slovenian Route (5.10c, Knez-Freser-Tic, 1985)
8 Harlin Direttissima (ED3/4, 1800m, Bonington-Golikow-Haag-Harlin-Haston-Hupfauer-Kor-Lehne-Rosenzopf Schnaidt-Strobel-Votteler-Whillans, 1966)
9 Czech Route (5.10a A3 80� ice, 1800m, Sm�d-Rybicka-Sm�d-Flejberk, 1978)
10 The Young Spider (7a A2 WI6 M7, 1100m, Steck-Siegrist, 2001)
11 Ideal Direttissima (ED, 1800m, Pochyl, 1983)
12 Japanese Direttissima (5.9 A3, 1800m, Imai-Kato-Kato-Negishi-Hirofumi-Kubo, 1969)
13 Toni Hiebeler Memorial Route (ED+: V+ A3 80�, 1400m, Luke-Pitelka-Smid, 1985)
14 M�tano�a (ED4, 1800m, Lowe, 1991)
15 Original Route (ED2, 1800m, Harrer-Heckmair-Kasparek-V�rg, 1938)
16 La Vida es Silbar (project; awaits one-day redpoint) (7c, 900m, Anker-Siegrist, 1999)
17 Czech Pillar (5.10a A4, 1300m, Sm�d-Kysilkov�-Placheck-Rybicka, 1976)
18 Geneva Pillar (ED2, 900m, Hopfgartner-Piola, 1979)
19 Piola-Ghilini Direttissima (ED3/4, 1400m, Ghilini-Piola, 1983)
20 Gelber-Engel (5.11a, 1100m, Coubal-Coubal, 1988)
21 North Corner (ED3, 1200m, Howald-Howald-Ruedi, 1981)
22 Yeti (not shown) (5.10a A1, 1000m, Forlini-Faggiani, 1998)
23 Eigersanction (ED3, 1000m, Anker-Piola, 1988)
24 Le Chant du Cygne (ED3: 7a, 6b+ oblig., 900m, Anker-Piola, 1992)
25 Spit Verdonesque �dent� (IV 7a A1, 300m, Maillefer-Steiner, 1983)
26 Deep Blue Sea (7b+, 300m, Rathmaier-Ruhstaller, 2001)
27 Knez Route (5.7, 650m, Knez, 1982)
28 Ochsner-Brunner Route (5.9, 600m, Ochsner-Brunner, 1982)
29 L�cherspiel (5.10d, 350m, Anker-Gruber, 1988)
30 Direct West Ridge (not shown) (5.12a, 350m, Piola-Sprungli, 1980)
31 Via Ferrata Rotstock (not shown) (F, 260m, unknown, 1899 and 2000)
32 West Flank and West Ridge (AD, Almer-Barrington-Bohren, 1858) [Photo] Jost von Allmen
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Re: Tura ALPE 2010

Postby nona » 07 Aug 2010, 21:50

07.08.2010. (Keno, tel.)
U medjuvremenu, otkako se nismo čuli, grupa od 5 je ispenjala Dufourspitze 4634 m , a jedna grupa je ispenjala i Breithorn 4164 m.
Salih i Mućak su pomjerili (??) Eiger, uglavnom, Mućak je sam ispenjao Matterhorn u medjuvremenu.
Sad su u Chamonix-u i spremaju se na Mt Blanc, koliko sam razumio preko Dome De Gouter, klasicna ruta.
Javljanje mailom ostaje "na snazi", sa vjerovatno vise podataka.


Slika ispod: Monterossa group sa Dufourspitze, foto: Nailovamater

Image

Slika ispod: Breithorn, uspon prije nekoliko godina, Left to right: Dado (Travnik), Bega (Hamburg), Sale (Sarajevo)

Image

Slika ispod: Matterhorn, klasicni uspon bridom, preko Solway hutte. Foto: Haris Kalajdžisalihović

Image
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Re: Tura ALPE 2010

Postby motika » 08 Aug 2010, 14:27

pozdrav iz chamonixa, danas nam je dan odmora, sutra bi trebali krenuti na monte bianco ;-)
zasad je sve ok, vrijeme nas je dosta mazilo, nadam se da ce i iduca dva dana, pozdrav za sve :twisted:
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Re: Tura ALPE 2010

Postby sObica » 08 Aug 2010, 22:40

sretnoooo.... :-D :-D :-D
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Re: Tura ALPE 2010

Postby prenj » 10 Aug 2010, 03:47

danas su imali lijep dan, a i u utorak i srijedu ce imati dobro vrijeme Image,
sretno!!
Put ne postoji. Put nastaje hodanjem.
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Re: Tura ALPE 2010

Postby nona » 10 Aug 2010, 11:20

Attachments
mtblanc_grandcolouir.jpg
Uspon od Tête Rousse prema prvoj sekciji uspona, Grand Colouir-u, sa kućom Goûter na vrhu.
mtblanc_goutertosummit.jpg
Od Dôme du Goûter (vrh, kuća se zove Hutte du Goûter) prema vrhu Mt Blanca. Skloniste Vallot (Vallot refuge) vidi se na vrhu sjenke oko sredine slike.
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Re: Tura ALPE 2010

Postby nona » 11 Aug 2010, 22:45

Blic vijesti... 11. august 2010 21:00, Keno, telefonom:
Ekipa sjedi u Chamonix-u, u toku dana spustili su se u dolinu. Vrh Mt Blanc nije ispenjan. Uglavnom, svi su živi i zdravi i na okupu i sutra kreću nazad.
Vrh nije ispenjan jer je vremenska prognoza bila nepovoljna. Osim toga iz nekog razloga kuća Gouter je bila zatvorena, te se sa kuće Tete Rousse moralo ići direktno na vrh. Kako Keno reče, ni to ne bi bio problem, vrh se mogao ispenjati, međutim povratak na kuću Tete Rousse bi bio dug i neizvjestan uz najavljene vremenske uslove. Pošto se planina ispraznila pred dolazećim pogoršanjem vremena, ni mi se nismo pravili "supermeni", te smo se vratili sa Gouter-a.
Toliko sam ja razumio, detalji po povratku.
REzime: Triglav, GRossglockner, Breithorn, Matterhorn, Dufourspitce i pola Mt Blanca :-) Sretan put kući, "maratonci"
Lijepe snimke pravca Gouter mogu se pogledati na http://www.summitpost.org/album/346155/ ... route.html
Attachments
gouter-ridge.JPG
Gouter ridge, na vrhu je Gouter hut. Vidljiv put u padinama Gouter-a.
gouter-ridge.JPG (23.52 KiB) Viewed 7081 times
gouter_hut.JPG
Gouter hut.
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Re: Tura ALPE 2010

Postby motika » 14 Aug 2010, 16:04

pozdrav svima...
sretno, zdravo i u jednom komadu smo jutros stigli u sarajevo. put je odlicno prosao bilo je svega, pozitivnog naravno, medjutim nestabilno vrijeme nam je uskratilo zadnja dva planirana vrha. to nas medjutim ne smeta, jer ipak mislim da smo na adekvatan nacin obiljezili 60 godina postojanja našeg društva - PD Željezničar. Jos jednom se zelim zahvaliti u ime ekipe na podrsci koju smo dobivali i ovdje a i preko poruka, poziva i pozitivnom atmosferom koju nam je raja upucivala.

Hvala puno :twisted:
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Re: Tura ALPE 2010

Postby keno » 16 Aug 2010, 13:38

Dakle, šta se u stvari dešavalo u proteklih 15tak dana:
PD ”Željezničar” je povodom svog 60-tog rođendana organizovalo pohod na ”5 vrhova Alpa” sa planom da izađe na najviše vrhove alpskih zemalja : Slovenije – Triglav, Austrije-Grossglockner, Švajcarske- Monte Rosa/Dufour Sptz., Francuske- Mt. Bianco :mrgreen: i Italije – Grand Paradiso. Pored toga, dvojica alpinista, Salih Mulaosmanović i Armin Gazić planirali su uspon sjevernom stijenom Eigera. Drugi vrhovi, trekovi, spustovi, kulturološke ture i ostalo su zamišljeni kao alternativa nekim usponima.
”Ekspedicija” je brojala 16 članova i vozača Jasmina Šlaufa bez koga ovo ne bi prošlo ovako glatko. Od prvobitno planiranih 6 vrhova, odustalo se od 3 zbog nepovoljne prognoze i vremenskih uslova. Uspješno je ispenjano 5 vrhova i 7 domova :lol: .

Ispenjani vrhovi, domovi ( :lol: ) i ostalo :

Triglav (2864m) via Tominskov pot (ferata)
1. Amila Šunje
2. Lejla Porobić
3. Dado Delić
4. Dalvin Kadirić
5. Kenan Kapo
6. Kenan Muftić
7. Rami El-Kayisi

Erzherzog Johannhutte (3454m) (ferata)
1. Amila Šunje
2. Amra Muftić
3. Amra Resić
4. Emina Šunje
5. Lejla Porobić
6. Valida Durajlić
7. Armin Gazić
8. Dado Delić
9. Dalvin Kadirić
10. Emin Komarica
11. Kenan Kapo
12. Kenan Muftić
13. Rami El Kayisi
14. Salih Mulaosmanović
15. Tarik Muhamedagić
16. Velid Alibašić

Grossglockner (3798m) (PD, glečer 35°, UIAA II)
1. Amila Šunje
2. Emina Šunje
3. Lejla Porobić
4. Armin Gazić
5. Dado Delić
6. Dalvin Kadirić
7. Kenan Kapo
8. Kenan Muftić
9. Rami El Kayisi
10. Salih Mulaosmanović

Breithorn (4164m) , snijeg 35°
1. Emina Šunje
2. Valida Durajlić
3. Emin Komarica
4. Rami El Kayisi

Dufour Spitze (4634m), AD, glečer, UIAA III
1. Amila Šunje
2. Dado Delić
3. Dalvin Kadirić
4. Kenan Kapo
5. Kenan Muftić
*Na ovoj listi nedostaje Lejla Porobić, koja je morala odustati od uspona zbog povrede na Triglavu. Kako god okrenemo, ako je ko zaslužio ovaj vrh onda je to Lejla.

Bordali pod Breithornom
1. Emina Šunje
2. Tarik Muhamedagić
3. Velid Alibašić

Matterhorn (4478m) , via Hornli greben, AD, UIAA III (IV)
1. Armin Gazić – Solo
^:)^

Refuge du Gouter (3817 m), ferata

1. Amila Šunje
2. Emina Šunje
3. Lejla Porobić
4. Armin Gazić
5. Dado Delić
6. Dalvin Kadirić
7. Emin Komarica
8. Kenan Kapo
9. Kenan Muftić
10. Rami El Kayisi
11. Salih Mulaosmanović

Od uspona na Monte Bianco (Mt. Blanc) se odustalo zbog padavina i grmljavine koje su nas dočekale na Du Gouteru, a koje nisu bile prognozirane. Razvedravanje koje je trebalo početi oko 4 je takođe kasnilo dva sata, a nove padavine su bile najavljene za 11. Za uspon i povratak na ”sigurno” po tome definitivno nije bilo vremena, te smo odlučili da se dostojanstveno povučemo u Chamonix. Po baksuzluku i ta nova prognoza nije bila tačna i bilo je vedro do kraja dana. Druge šanse nije bilo jer je najavljivani mokri talas stigao već narednog dana.
Jos jednom čestitke s moje strane ekipi na izuzetnoj atmosferi, druženju, saradnji i naravno na ostvarenim rezultatima. Svima vama ovdje, našim porodicama i onima koji ovaj put nisu mogli sa nama puno hvala na podršci. :-h
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Re: Tura ALPE 2010

Postby chupo » 16 Aug 2010, 14:22

fino ste se vi nahodali ...čestitke još jednom :happy
nego ima li one kasirke u pontu ili ste i to preskočili ? :shock:
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Re: Tura ALPE 2010

Postby 3oka » 16 Aug 2010, 15:09

Cestitke na turi i vrhovima svim ucesnicima i ucesnicama
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Re: Tura ALPE 2010

Postby gogo » 16 Aug 2010, 15:59

svaka cast, cure i decki :happy
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Re: Tura ALPE 2010

Postby jemo » 16 Aug 2010, 16:05

cestitke i od mene....( mogli ste bogami i u Konjic svratit)
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Re: Tura ALPE 2010

Postby nona » 16 Aug 2010, 18:06

Djemo druze, za Konjica treba dobra aklimatizacija, dere visinska :-c
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Re: Tura ALPE 2010

Postby chupo » 16 Aug 2010, 20:47

niko ništa ne odgovara !!! ima li one kasirke u pontu ?
nije valjda da niste svratili !?!?!? dalvineeee :roll:
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